We made the trip to Okinawa or "Big Island" in Japanese in December 2025 as a family. There were no direct flights there from where we are based in Kuala Lumpur, hence had to first fly to Hong Kong and layover for 5 hours at the Chek Lap Kok HK International Airport. It was tiring indeed especially with young kids traveling during the wee hours of night. The saving grace was that we departed from the Subang International Airport which is not to far from where we live (instead of the usual KL International Airport which is at least a good hour of travel from our doorstep).
Places that we've been to in Okinawa.
We wanted to travel to Japan but didn't want the crowds especially since hearing of the recent over-tourism phenomenon there. Over-tourism as they say, puts strain on what the local infrastructure and resources can comfortably support. Local Japanese residents too become more stressed out in accommodating the many foreigners especially when they are oblivious and ignorant towards the local customs and sensitivities. Many have become more unwelcoming to foreigners and even view them as a burden to local society as published all over social media. This sentiment is also reflected in Japan's political shift toward more right wing policies in recent times, shunning migrant workers including foreign tourists.
Anyways, we chose Okinawa simply because it's less visited in comparison to mainland Japan destinations such as Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Hokkaido and the likes. It also happens to fit in to my inclination for off the beaten path and less well trodden destinations.
Landed in Hong Kong International Airport in the middle of the night for a 5 hour layover.
The flight from Hong Kong took approximately 2 hours and we landed at the Naha International Airport in Okinawa. As expected, Japanese immigration and customs were highly efficient and systematic. We noticed most tourist there at that point of time were from Taiwan (carrying the green ROC passport) and South Korea. There were also guests coming from Hong Kong judging from the Cantonese they spoke. The elephant in the room that was missing were the mainland China tourists (they probably stayed away from Japan due to the boiling political climate at that time - Japanese PM Sanae Takaichi threatened to militarily intervene should PRC "invade" Taiwan).
Rented a trustworthy and "fuel efficient" Toyota Yaris
Prior to arriving in Okinawa, we booked a rental car online via Klook as we read that the public transport around the island can be quite limited outside of Naha in addition to taxis being very expensive too. Renting a car also provided us more flexibility in timing our travels around the island as and when we wished. The car rental cost us about 14,500 yen (RM380) for a week's worth of rental for a good size comfortable Toyota Yaris (not to mention it has superb fuel efficiency - we didn't even need to pump petrol for a week despite traveling round island). Picking up the car was pretty efficient (a couple of checks and paperwork and we're good to go in no time), I noticed the people manning the car rental company were mainland Chinese (from the way they spoke Mandarin). They were pretty impressive linguistically given they could communicate to renters in Japanese, Korean, English and obviously Mandarin.
Weather-wise, it was pretty decent and comfortable in the earlier half of December. Perhaps slightly chilly if you're thinking of going into the sea but if you don't plan to get wet it's actually a very comfortable temperature range of 13-22 degrees Celcius (while we were there). Though the wind chill factor might make certain places colder than it seems.
Our hearty Ryukyuan lunch comprising goya champuru, Okinawan soba, mozuku seaweed, sea grapes etc.
Dining in a Ryukyuan Izakaya in downtown Naha (Kokusai-dori)
Kokusai-dori shopping district in downtown Naha.
We headed off to Kokusai-dori (known as International Street in English) to search for a good lunch. As it was my first time driving a vehicle in Japan, I noticed that the Japanese drivers are probably the most polite and thoughtful drivers I've encountered. They drive at very safe distances from the vehicle in front, willingly give way to vehicles trying to change lanes and the famous "thank you" hazard light to show appreciation for vehicles who have given way or yielded to their course. These driving practices are pretty common in Japan but it becomes a unique rarity in other parts of the world.
One thing very un-Japanese we noticed here were the abundance of unkempt wild grass growing on the side of the roads all over Okinawa. Apparently the council don't cut it due to budget issues so long as they don't interfere with traffic safety.
Kokusai-dori is the go to place for shopping on the island. You'll be able to find anything ranging from souvenirs, memorabilia, clothing, local snacks, to Ryukyuan lacquer ware, Okinawan ocean blue crystals and even Habu snake wine. One should be aware that the Japanese don't practice price bargaining or haggling and it is very disrespectful to them if one does it. Prices of all items for sale are fixed. Fortunately for us, we traveled during a time when the Malaysian ringgit currency was at an all time strength against the Japanese yen (about 1MYR : 38.7JPY in Dec 2025) so that gave us some additional purchasing power while in Japan!
MYR to JPY hitting an all time high in MYR's favour in Dec 2025
Shuri Castle was the next stop being the former seat of power of the ancient Ryukyuan Kingdom. While we were visiting (in Dec 2025) restoration efforts were underway hence we couldn't enter the main castle structure where the throne sits. Shuri Castle sits atop a high and strategic hill point overlooking the entire island far out to sea. It's high castle walls protected against potential invaders as well as provided good shelter towards typhoons which are a common occurrence throughout the Ryukyuan archipelago. Another thing I noticed while in Naha was the common sight of concrete everywhere. The term "concrete jungle" would be most apt here. But the logic behind all these thick concrete structures was due to the frequent typhoons that batter the archipelago every year without fail.
Entrance to the main Shuri Castle throne hall.
Concrete jungle of Naha as seen from Shuri Castle complex.
Shuri Castle's main throne hall under renovation as of Dec 2025.
High fort walls of Shuri Castle.
We stayed at the Laguna Garden Hotel located in the township of Ginowan. It is a very complete resort with all the facilities for a pleasant stay; pool, gym, playground, nearby beach and even nearby sports complex (tennis, soccer, volleyball, baseball). The breakfast there had two dining options, the Western one (Paseo Garden) and the Ryukyuan one (An-non). We tried both and came to conclusion that the Ryukyuan one was probably the healthier but blander version while the Western one (fused with Asian) was more appetizing.
We stayed at the Laguna Garden Hotel in Ginowan.
Typical Ryukyuan cuisine consisting of goya, fish, tempura, miso soup, sea grapes, tofu and mozuku seaweed for breakfast at the Laguna Garden Hotel.
The dining hall serving a fusion of Western and Asian cuisine, Paseo Garden.
Enjoying the sunset from the west facing Tropical Beach
Japanese primary school kids serious with their soccer training session at the sports complex near our hotel. No wonder Japan's football standards are so high!
Churaumi Aquarium
No visit to Okinawa is complete without visiting the Churaumi Aquarium. About 780 species of marine life are on display in this aquatic world including whale sharks, reef sharks, manta rays, manatees, dolphins, sea turtles and various types of fish. The children were certainly captivated by all the sea creatures on display. The way these exhibits were laid out was very structured and informative, started from shallow water coral reef fishes to deep water marine life and ocean floor sea creatures. Exploring the entire aquarium extensively takes a whole day as it covers a large area. If you're traveling from Naha, it takes almost two hours to get there (depending on whether you decide to take the tolled road or not).
Taking a coastal shot on the way to Churaumi Aquarium, somewhere near Nago.
Kids enjoying underwater wonders at the aquarium.
Resident whale shark in the main aquarium.
The complimentary profile photo with Okinawan blue sky and sea as the background.
Cape Manzamo
One of the famous ocean vistas on offer here in Okinawa. The cape features an elephant-looking rock (as if dipping its trunk in the East China Sea). It is located near the township of Onna on the western seaboard of the island. Winds here are strong, so if you're afraid of the wind chill please remember to bring sufficient warm clothing. We were just in time to enjoy the sunset over the East China Sea, while on the way back from the Churaumi Aquarium towards our hotel in Ginowan. Sunset was certainly a magical display of twilight time viewed from the cape.
The splendor of sunset at Cape Manzamo.
We were treated to a traditional Ryukyuan dinner at a Kaiseki located near the American Village in Ginowan. It was a multi-course meal consisting of traditional Ryukyuan cuisine such as goya champuru (bittergourd egg mix), sea grapes, mozuku seaweed, sashimi, Okinawan soba, tempura, pork and various types of seafood. Throughout the dinner we were entertained by traditional Ryukyuan folk songs played by the sanshin musical instrument (a type of snakeskin lute) similar to the Chinese er hu. It was quite interesting to know that most of the Ryukyuan folk songs like the Toshin doi were themed about the Ryukyuan people expressing their joy at the arrival of the Chinese merchant ships which brought much needed imported products while also buying local Ryukyuan produces which meant much needed income for the people of the archipelago. These folk songs highlights the special mutually beneficial relationship that the Kingdom of Ryukyu had with mainland China in ancient times. Contrast that with the realities of today whereby Okinawa hosts foreign military bases which are likely targeted at containing China's expanding influence in the region. This naturally makes Okinawa a direct military target should a large scale war among great powers breakout in the region.
Dining at the Kaiseki while being entertained to traditional Ryukyuan folk music.
Tempura, Okinawa soba, sea grapes, sweet potato paste
Goya champuru the famous local Okinawan superfood of bitter gourd, egg, luncheon meat mix
Sashimi, goya champuru, tofu, pickles and many other condiments
Ryukyuan Grilled Fish
Grilled Prawn
Gyokusendo Cave
We visited this vast underground cave complex which is located within the compounds of the Okinawa World. The underground cave consisted of many interesting limestone formations such as stalactites and stalagmites. Some of these formations take the form of interesting folk characters and makes one wonder about the coincidental occurrence. The cave floor is mostly wet due to an underground stream throughout the cave but fret not because the park authorities have constructed a thoughtful walkway to cater for the needs to tourists. For those who are more adventurous, there are options of exploring the cave through caving activities.
In the complex underground Gyokusendo cave labyrinth.
Okinawa World
Once you've exited the Gyokusendo Cave, you will appear at the back end of the Okinawa World park that takes you through some tropical fruit garden (bananas, pineapples, papayas, pomegranates) to Okinawan glass making factory and through traditional Ryukyuan houses. The traditional Ryukyuan performance is a must see. Spinning and whirling drums, shisa and fisherman folk story performance are some of them. There is even a snake show but we missed out on the timing of this one. Towards the end of the park, there are exhibits of the local Habu snake which are notorious for their poisonous venom and are found throughout the island. Local Ryukyuans make Habu sake out of these snakes and are sold at premium prices due to their supposed health benefits including male sexual performance. I didn't have a go at this Habu sake since I'm not a big fan of alcohol and I still have confidence in my natural sexual performance hence no need for stimulants.
Okinawan glass-making works.
Together with girls in traditional Ryukyuan costumes.
In front of a traditional Ryukyuan house.
Shisa or guardian lion that protects homes are found all over Okinawa.
Habu sake "snake wine" that supposedly enhances male sexual prowess
Entrance of Okinawa World.
Mibaru Beach
This beach located on the South East Coast of the island is one rare gem of a beach in Okinawa. What makes this beach captivating are its offshore rock formations that remind me of Australia's Twelve Apostles along the Great Ocean Road (now probably down to seven apostles). The waters here are calm and the sands are white though not as fine as one might think because there are lots of dead corals and sharp broken sea shells scattered all over the beach. Its not easy to find the beach as it is located down a steep cliff and its entrance hidden by rocks and houses. The entrance we came from was the Shokudo Kalika beach front entrance where there lies a small parking lot good for eight cars. Once again we were treated to a spectacular sunset over the rock formations overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
Rock formations that resembles the Great Ocean Road's Twelve Apostles in Australia.
White sands of the Mibaru Beach.
Futenma-gu Shinto Temple
This Shinto Temple is perhaps the most sacred and venerated on the island. It host a temple facade and also a cave shrine at the back of the temple. One would need to place their name on the que for a temple tour (they usually do it in groups of about 10 people). The wait time is about half an hour for each temple tour. The tour starts by going to the back of the temple where a gate door opens that leads into the cave (one wouldn't have suspected that there would be an underground cave complex behind the normal-looking door). But before going into any Shinto Temple, it is always a custom to wash one's hands and mouth with water in the front of the temple, symbolic of cleansing and purifying oneself prior to entering the holy grounds. This cave temple has a folk story behind it whereby two sisters in ancient Ryukyuan times used to reside near that area, one of them, Megami is of unmatched beauty but remains pious and devout to spiritual pursuits. Her sister though, married a common man who became curios of the legendary beauty. One day the husband of Megami's sister peeked into her room to satisfy his curiosity only to be caught by her. The beautiful Megami was horrified at his lust and instantly fled the house, disappearing into the Futenma cave and never to be seen again. Since then, she has become a divine being "Kami" of the cave.
Ritual cleansing with water at the entrance of the Shinto Temple.
Wooden wish pads being hung for blessings.
Torii gate at the entrance of the Futenma-gu Shinto Temple.
Shikina-en Royal Gardens
We visited this Royal Gardens located in the heart of Naha, Okinawa. In the center of this Royal Garden lies the Udun which is a statehouse that hosts visiting Chinese diplomats witnessing the installation of a new Ryukyuan ruler in ancient times. The Royal Gardens are perfectly curated and hosts a small lake in its center. Chinese architecture is evident here with the hexagonal pavilion and "half moon" bridge as attestation to this. The grounds make a good place to picnic and enjoy the carefully manicured gardens but choose your timing wisely as it can be too hot and sunny at certain times of the day.
The Royal Gardens provide a conducive grounds for a family picnic.
In front of the Udun statehouse where Ryukyuan rulers coronation ceremony is held.
Chinese styled half moon bridge. Found in abundance in Suzhou.
The Udun as seen from across the lake.
Chinese styled hexagonal pavilion by the lake.
Beautifully curated Shikina-en Royal Gardens as seen from across the lake.
Okinawa certainly left us with a strong and positive impression of the island. It is well known that this island has the highest concentration of centenarians in the world and I can see why that is. The local Ryukyuans, especially the older generation go by the mantra of nankuru nai sa which roughly means "don't worry too much, things will somehow work out". That goes to show their wisdom in handling stress which is a killer in modern day life throughout the world. Their simple but healthy diet of goya (bittergourd), mozuku seaweed, sea grapes, vinegar, fish and tofu (beancurd) nourishes the body with all the goodness required for a healthy life. They also practice eating moderately and stopping when the stomach is 80% full. Living life with a sense of purpose or ikigai brings new meaning to all the perceived mundane routines in life and opens up a new perspective of fulfillment and meaningfulness in life. All these combined is probably the secret elixir to longevity and immortality that Emperor Qin Shi Huang of China was looking for when he sent his mission on a quest to the Eastern Islands near the origin of the sun!
Kokusai-dori shopping district.
View of the ocean from our hotel room in Ginowan.
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