Cebu, the island strategically located in the heart of the archipelago known as the Philippines was the very first place the Spanish conquistadors landed at in their conquest of the eastern Oriental seas. Located in the multi-island region known as the Visayas, Cebu gives a good preview to what the Philippines has to offer, historically, naturally and geographically. Being in the middle of the country, you get to see a good blend of northern and southern influence. The largest city on the island is known as Cebu City and is reputed to be the oldest city in the archipelago. The explorer Ferdinand Magellan landed on the island in 1521 and was met with fierce retaliation from the locals. Magellan was famously killed in the Battle of Mactan by the local chieftain, Lapu-Lapu who is still revered as a national hero till today.
The arrival of the Spaniards brought Christianity to the Philippines - this picture enacts Magellan's cross first planted on the island of Cebu to symbolize this event.
The famous Spanish conquistador, Ferdinand Magellan, who met his end on Mactan Island thanks to Lapu-Lapu.
Portrait enacting the Battle of Mactan whereby local chieftain Lapu-Lapu defeated Ferdinand Magellan and his armada. However this did not mark the end of the Spanish conquest of the Philippines where the archipelago ended up being colonized by the Spaniards for the longest of times, influencing it's psyche and culture today.
I visited the island of Cebu together with my cousin, Bojing in November of 2025. It was a trip that was uncertain from the very beginning because of multiple natural disasters striking the island just weeks/months prior to the trip. First there was a 6.9 magnitude earthquake that struck the island in the end of September 2025 and that was followed by several equally large magnitude aftershocks all of which caused substantial damage to infrastructure around the island, not to mention the loss of lives. Then just weeks before our trip there was the Typhoon Kalmaegi which brought considerable destruction and flooding to the region. All these events happened successively allowing no time for the island and its people to fully recover.
We were on the promo direct flight ticket as Air Asia just launched direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Cebu.
The flight from Kuala Lumpur to Cebu took roughly 4 hours via a direct Air Asia flight. As Cebu was a newly added direct flight destination from Kuala Lumpur back then, the flight tickets were on promo which cost an all in RM700 per person for a return flight including baggage allowance and in flight meals. Upon landing at Mactan Cebu International Airport at night, we headed to the Holiday Inn Hotel by IHG located in the Hippodromo which is the business district of Cebu City. I decided to be based here for the next few days because of its strategic and convenient location surrounded by many amenities and the famous gigantic shopping mall, Ayala Center. Being based here would enable us to save time from being caught in the notorious Cebu City traffic crawl traveling from one place to another. The places of interests that we intended to visit are also located not too far from here hence making it a strategic staging point for our travels.
Being based at the strategically located Holiday Inn by IHG allowed us to explore Cebu's historical center conveniently.
By the break of day, we realized that Cebu City is a sprawling city that stretches out in all directions as far as our eyes could see. Most of it though are squatter areas or better known as shanty towns, recognizable from the zinc roofs and wooden frame of the structure. The most developed and modern area was where we were located around the Ayala Center. And there lies a smaller island just outside of Cebu City called Mactan Island which is where the Mactan Cebu International Airport is located. It was on this island where the infamous Battle of Mactan actually took place which resulted in Magellan's death.
Fort San Pedro
We started our exploration of the city in its old historical heart. Smacked right in the center of Plaza Independencia is Fuerte de San Pedro which was built by the Spanish in the 17th century under the command of Miguel de Legazpi to repel Muslim raiders who were a constant threat to Spanish rule in the Philippines. The fort structure still stands tall and strong and one could clearly see how strategic its placement is by the sea and on high ground to give clear visibility of potential attackers.
Magellan's Cross
Just a stones throw from Fort San Pedro is Magellan's Cross which commemorates the arrival of Christianity to the Philippines archipelago. Obviously the word of God was brought along by the Spaniards during their conquest and though initially faced with a lot of resistance, the archipelago soon embraced Christianity and remains a Christian majority nation till today. We were swarmed by many street peddlers (some of which can be quite pesky) selling red candles for prayer around Magellan's Cross. These candles are not meant to be lit up but instead thrown directly into the shelter housing the cross upon making a prayer.
Basilica Minore del Santo Nino de Cebu
This cathedral is the largest and most sacred of all in Cebu City. As we were approaching the Christmas season, we could see large crowds of faithfuls gathering on a daily basis and service was also held on a daily basis. That goes to show how devout and religious Filipinos are. They are after all the largest Christian majority nation in the far east Orient. It is worth taking note that Christmas festivities start by September throughout the Philippines whereby shopping malls start playing Christmas tunes and adorning Yuletide decors proving how big and important Christmas is to the nation. This basilica complex actually comprises an outdoor and indoor complex. As the number of churchgoers and pilgrims continue to increase over the years, the original indoor basilica couldn't accommodate such large crowds hence the outdoor pilgrim center was constructed to accommodate the growing numbers. The indoor basilica resembles typical European cathedrals with extensive frescoes all over the ceiling and walls of the cathedral. The centerpiece altar also known as the Reredos located in the main sanctuary houses statues of the Virgin Mary. Hyms in Tagalog and Cebuano (which is a different language) were sung all day long till dusk arrived.
Sugbu Chinese Heritage Museum
This museum located in the Gotiaco Building exhibits Chinese migrant influence in Cebu as the name suggests. Just a stones throw from Magellan's Cross, behind the Cebu City Hall, this whitewashed building does give glimpses of Chinese merchants wealth and influence throughout the region. The Chinese being a migratory race, fled their ancient homeland to the southern seas (Nanyang) in search of better business prospects. It is the same story throughout countries in Southeast Asia whereby successful Chinese families grew their business empire and built up their economic and political influence. They eventually dominate their adopted land's economy but with that came the risk of being made easy scapegoats when things goes wrong due to the perceived wealth inequality. In the Philippines, it seemed like the Chinese migrants were more fortunate in the sense they were better assimilated and hence viewed as local Filipinos instead of a foreign race. This was not so the case in Indonesia especially during the Suharto era where the Indonesian Chinese were made easy scapegoats when ever political upheavals happened. This museum showcased typical Chinese origin pottery, equipment used for their sea bound journey to the southern seas, and detailed explanation on the humble beginnings of most Chinese migrants along with the hardships they had to endure in their adopted lands. It was certainly something that my cousin Bojing and I could relate to being ethnic Malaysian Chinese ourselves.
Colon
The original business hub centered along the Colon Street area. This was historically the CBD of Cebu City where the Chinese traders dominated prior to the city growing to the metropolis it is today. Today it is a shell of it glorious past marked by aged colonial era shophouses. The dusty streets littered with rubbish showed how its once glorious past seemed to be of a forgotten bygone era. Garbage and mud from the recent floods brought by Typhoon Kalmaegi was still evident all over Cebu City including in the Colon district.
Yap San Diego Ancestral House
This was the ancestral home of the Yap family that started with the pioneer Don Juan Yap, who was a migrant Filipino Chinese from mainland China. Obviously they made it big in the business they were plying and have moved up the societal ladder since then. The expanded family now controls several big businesses in the Philippines in sectors such as banking, real estate, pharmaceuticals, education, hotels and media. The entire ancestral home is filled with a blend of colonial and Chinese furniture, silverware, pottery, portraits and decor that reflects the fusion of eastern and western cultures. It gives a sense of resemblance to the Peranakan or Baba Nyonya culture that I'm familiar with back in Malaysia.
Casa Gorordo
This historical building was next up in our itinerary. Also located in the historical Parian area of Cebu and almost a stones throw away from Yap San Diego's Ancestral House, this building is a fine example of what the locals call balay nga tissa or "house with tilled roof". It's architecture and internal decor features a unique blend of colonial Spanish, Chinese and local Cebuano influence. Wandering through the corridors of the building takes us back to the colonial era whereby peoples of mestizo descent were the upper class of society back then as they were a mixture of Spanish, Chinese and local Filipino heritage. It is a less cluttered version of Yap San Diego's house and seems to have better usage of space, not to forget, more space. The building is surrounded by nicely crafted gardens which also features a nice cafe to chill out in while waiting for a cab.
Ayala Center
We had Halo Halo, a local Filipino dessert which is similar to Ais Kacang back in Malaysia.
Shopping malls in the Philippines are of grandiose scale and if you're pitting the largest malls in the world, they are a serious contender for the title. Ayala Center being strategically located in the central business district of Cebu City serves up the needs for everyone. You can practically get anything you want here. The mall is so large that you'll need a map to navigate through the shopping complex to minimize your risk of getting lost. As our hotel is within walking distance from the mall, we could conveniently walk over for lunch or dinner and be spoiled for choices.
Cebu Taoist Temple
View of Cebu City from the Taoist Temple.
Located in the upscale Beverly Hills suburb in Cebu City, this is another place showcasing Chinese heritage in Cebu. The residents of the Beverly Hills suburb are mostly of Filipino Chinese descent hence why the temple was constructed there to serve the needs of the community. It made a lot of sense as to why the Chinese chose to settle in this suburb given the good feng shui of the Beverly Hills location being up atop a hill, facing the sea, with breezy air and sunlight passing through and not forgetting the surrounding lush greenery of the hills. All these fits the criteria for a good feng shui home to increase the likelihood of good, prosperous and healthy living throughout the generations. The temple itself sits high atop a cliff and gives a good view of the Cebu City down below. Like any other Chinese temple, there is a main shrine, a pagoda structure and many steps leading up to the shrine that hosts the Gods. Indeed it is a good workout for those who had indulged in the good local Cebuano cuisine.
Mactan Island (Shangri La Mactan Resort)
This small island located just offshore the main Cebu island was where the infamous Battle of Mactan took place where the conquistador Ferdinand Magellan met his end. The heroic local chieftain Lapu-Lapu is celebrated as a national hero till today and is a symbol of Filipino resistance to foreign colonialism. There is a town on the island that's named after him and also a shrine that commemorates him. We stayed at the upscale Shangri La Mactan Resort while on the island, primarily to enjoy the private beach and its surrounding waters as Cebu City itself has no decent beach. Indeed, it did not disappoint as the upscale resort did live up to its luxurious billing. The white sand beach fronting the resort and overlooking the opposite Olango Island is decent, but what's more spectacular is the crystal clear waters themed with a plethora of marine life that's surrounding it. Don't underestimate what those waters can offer in terms of biodiversity. Just within a short distance of snorkeling from one end of the beach to the other end, I saw dozens of lionfish, a whole lot of coral fish, starfish, crabs, squid, giant clams and various types of hard and soft corals. That underwater surprise was certainly the highlight of the trip and I'm pretty sure that's only a light appetizer of what the Philippines has to offer in terms of marine biodiversity. We were treated to a seafood feast for dinner consisting of crab, calamari, prawns at a Korean themed restaurant. After dinner, the local Cebuano dancers entertained guests at the resort with traditional dances including the infamous bamboo dance. Miss a step and you get your leg clipped by those hard bamboo trunks. Following the rhythm is key, and that explains why Filipinos are generally good with rhythm and music.
We left the Philippines with a good insight of how local life is in Cebu. You have to take your hats off for the Filipinos who endure natural disaster after natural disaster with no time to even take a breather. From typhoons, to earthquakes, to volcanic eruptions and political upheavals, what doesn't kill you, makes you even stronger - that statement is all truer here than anywhere else.
